How To Use

While hangboards are excellent for warming up at the crag, they are also invaluable tools for building finger strength.

Here are the main ways to effectively build finger strength using one of our hangboards:

1. Static Hangs

  • Both Hands: Start with both hands to build foundational strength.
  • One-Handed Hangs: Progress to one-handed hangs as you get stronger.
    • Caution: Ensure you have adequate strength before attempting one-handed hangs to avoid tendon strain.

2. Repeaters

  • Method: Hang for a set duration (e.g., 7 seconds), rest briefly (e.g., 3 seconds), and repeat for a number of cycles (e.g., 6-8 times).
  • Sets: Perform multiple sets with different grip positions.
    • Caution: Gradually increase the duration and number of cycles to avoid overloading your tendons.

3. Dead Hangs

  • Method: Simply hang from the board with straight arms.
  • Duration: Increase hang time gradually to build endurance.
    • Caution: Avoid hanging with bent arms to reduce the risk of shoulder injuries.

4. Finger Pull-Ups

  • Method: Perform pull-ups using different grips on the hangboard (two-finger, three-finger, full crimp).
  • Reps: Start with a manageable number and gradually increase.
    • Caution: Ensure proper form to avoid placing excessive strain on your fingers and elbows.

5. Max Hangs

  • Method: Hang with as much added weight as you can manage for a short duration (5-10 seconds).
  • Reps: Perform 3-5 reps with adequate rest in between.
    • Caution: Increase weight progressively and avoid sudden jumps in added weight to prevent tendon injuries.

6. Half Crimp Hangs

  • Method: Use a half crimp grip, where the fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle.
  • Duration: Hold for 5-10 seconds, focusing on maintaining the crimp position.
    • Caution: Avoid overloading this position, as it places significant stress on the tendons.

7. Open Hand Hangs

  • Method: Use an open hand grip, spreading the fingers evenly on the hold.
  • Duration: Hold for 10-20 seconds.

8. Progressive Loading

  • Method: Gradually increase the weight you hang from, either by using a weight belt or holding weights with your feet.
    • Caution: Progress slowly to allow your tendons and ligaments to adapt.

9. Single Finger Training

  • Method: Train individual fingers by hanging with one finger from each hand.
    • Caution: Start with very short durations and low frequency to avoid injury, and only attempt if you have significant experience and strength.

10. Intermittent Hanging

  • Method: Alternate between hanging and resting in short intervals (e.g., 5 seconds hang, 5 seconds rest).
  • Sets: Repeat for a specified number of sets.